Vidal Sasson. Remembering the man who revolutionised hair

Sadly, the man who changed the world with a pair of scissors died this month in L.A. at 84.


Vidal Sassoon was the man who brought hairdressing to the forefront of art and fashion. 


He opened his first salon in London in 1954. In the 1960's he started getting more attention when he opened another salon in New York and his client list included celebrities such as Jane Fonda, Twiggy and Mia Farrow. After that a string of salons opened up internationally and he became a brand. 
Now the brand has become more than salons. There are products and equipment and academy's around the globe that are world renowned and hairdressers who are trained there are highly sought after. 

Sassoon's style was designed to be a low maintenance wash and wear, modern style. A revolution for everyone to have perfect salon hair at home. His slogan was "If you don't look good, we don't look good"


His signature works include the geometric perm and eventually a recreation of the classic "bob" which was geometric, angular and sometimes asymmetrical. While these straight shiny styles seemed severely cut they were entirely lacquer free and low maintenance.  


Sassoon said "Hair is nature's biggest compliment and the treatment of this compliment is in our hands. As in couture, the cut is the most important element ... haircutting simply means design and this feeling for design must come from within."

Hairdresser's everywhere have Sassoon to thank for the way he changed the industry for 5 decades and that even after his passing we can learn from him. I look forward to studying at his academy's in the future.


If you want to know more there was a movie made based on Vidal Sassoon in 2010. 

Celebrity Hair Icon : Nicole Richie

Nicole Richie has been a Hair Icon since she chopped off her hair extensions and brought the bob back. Nobody has rocked it better than this fabulous gal. Not only is her style always amazing, from the bob, back to long bohemian waves with a grown out parted fringe and now with a textured fringe and shoulder length locks, her colour is always flawless. So many clients ask for the "Nicole Richie Blonde" Creamy highlights in a caramel base. And then theres the braided styles and high pony tails. Always stunning and inspiring. There's no doubt she will always be a Hair Icon
Whoever is doing your hair Nicole, never let him/her get away

 

Hair at Home; By Vanessa Deluca

Ever wondered what it looks like when I work? Probably not but just incase heres this cool video of it:

Top 10 most damaging ways to treat your hair and ways to recover from them

These are the top 10 most damaging ways to treat you hair. They are in no particular order and most are regular ways of treating your hair so I don't expect anyone to avoid them all completely.

1. Styling with thermals. Hair dryers, hair straighteners, hot rollers, etc. We all love looking good and we all should if that what we want. But trying to minimise how often we style and the amount of heat we apply to our hair (especially when its not boy short and we aren't getting regular haircuts) is going to pay off when trying to keep your hair at its healthiest. Also using protective products before you apply thermals is going to assist in damage control. Try a leave in conditioner or a protective shine spray like Keratin Complex Thermo Shine.

2. Shampoo. While shampoo cleans your hair (and regularly cleaning your hair is obviously necessary) it also strips your hair of its natural oils. On going this can become extremely damaging. So the less you was your hair, the better. For more info on this topic read this.

3. Lightening your hair colour. Colouring your hair is not always damaging. Semi permanents can even add shine and smooth your hair temporarily. When you lighten your hair however, you always need to use an ammonia or other harsh chemical to penetrate the follicle and lift the hair colour.  This is always going to damage the hair but to what degree is up to you. The less often you lighten your hair and make sure the chemicals you use aren't too strong, the less damaging. Not leaving the colour chemicals in your hair too long is also going to prevent over processing. For more info read this.

4. Chemical straighteners and perms. These are two kinds of chemical treatments I don't provide for my clients. Simply because I believe that the result they produce for the damage they cause is just not worth it. If I wouldn't do it in my hair, I wouldn't recommend it to anyone. The reason they are so damaging is that they change the natural form and shape of your hair permanently (although it does grows out). Please feel free to leave any comments or questions on this one as I'm not going into it much further in this post.

5. Extensions. There are so many different types of extensions. Some are far less damaging than others and to whom's hair they are damaging to all depends on who is doing it and the person getting it done's hair and also how well the extensions are taken care of. So if you are planning on getting extensions, shop around and go off recommendations. Pay a little extra for better quality hair. If you still aren't sure but want to try them, my favourite option is a clip in hair piece. You can ask your local hairdresser or wig maker to find you one that is the right length colour and thickness for your hair and show you how to clip it in and out so you can wear it whenever you like and it won't damage your hair at all.

6. Tying your hair tightly when you sleep. This puts a lot of strain on your follicles and eventually you will get some breakage. I recently had a new client who did this and was wondering why her hair always broke and started looking like a mullet. If you can't sleep with your hair out, then plat it loosely and loosely tie the end.

7. Dry shampoo. I love dry shampoo. You can get away with the oiliest mess of hair when you're in a rush. But using it regularly really dries out your hair and scalp and it can take a while to recover from. So use in emergencies only.

8. Brushing. If your hair is long, brushing regularly is a must and you should, once or twice a day. But always start from the ends and work your way up to the roots. it you start at the roots your going to end up with some serious breakage. Especially if you have product in your hair like hair-spray or dry shampoo. Combing your conditioner through in the shower or combing it after your hair is towel dried with a wide toothed comb is going to help you avoid knots generally also. For more info, read this.

9. Weather. The weather really only has a small impact on your hair. High, strong sun exposure can damage your burn and bleach and strip your hair somewhat, but its a slight gradual process. Wearing a hat and using a leave in treatment/moisturiser will create a barrier between your hair and the sun and protect it. You can even find some with UV protection, like sunscreen for your hair.

10. Stress & Diet. Kind of two things but they go hand in hand. The better you take care of yourself the more lovely you look. Stress can cause your hair to fall out and become quite brittle. As can getting sick and taking certain medication. Theres some extra info here on the subject. The more protein in and vitamins, minerals, oils and good fats you consume, the shinier, thicker and stronger your hair will be. Also taking supplements like Silica will help improve the strength and appearance of your hair. So don't stress, eat well and just take care of yourself.

Essential Product for Blondes!

One of the first problems I blogged about was Brassy Blondes and how to prevent that problem.
Since then I've been getting feedback from clients telling me that they love these ideas but when using a toning shampoo have found that it dries out their already damaged hair somewhat.

Since then I've discovered an amazing new product which I believe trumps the rest!

In the Redken Blonde Glam range there are two after care treatments to be used on either cool blondes or warm blondes to enhance your colour. For Platinum Blondes use "Perfect Platinum" (or cool or ash blondes) this product tones out any yellow or brass. And for Golden Blondes use "Rich Vanilla" (or warm blondes) use this treatment to soften you colour and keep it radiant. Make sure your read the label and follow it directly. Don't leave them on your hair too long as they are quite strong.

If you do leave one in too long then remember the other one will help to counteract that colour.
For example, if you leave the Perfect Platinum in too long and it becomes slightly pink, use the Rich Vanilla after and the pink will get toned away. Or, alternatively you could mix a drop of the Rich Vanilla when about to apply Perfect Platinum to create a less strong tone. But only do this if you feel confident with the products and how well you know your hair.

They are my new favourites for my blonde clients. Try them out and let me know what you think

Platinum Blonde! MX article

Mx magazine asked me to do an article all about platinum blondes. So I thought I'd share it with you.

Here is the Q&A:


Is it for everyone? 
Definitely not. First of all its a very extreme look and so you need to have the right personality and sense of style. Platinum is very high maintenance, if your natural colour is quite dark it may be hard to achieve. Also if your hair is not very strong, it wont handle the damage bleach can create, very well. 


What kind of skin tone suits platinum hair? 
In my opinion anyone can have this look, its all about how you wear it and how you alter your other features to suit it, eg. you may have to lighten your eyebrows. But in saying that it definitely looks better on someone with fair skin.


Would you have to alter your make-up with this dramatic style? 
Yes, the clearer your skin is the better your hair will look when its platinum so a cover up or concealer will probably be necessary. Eye make-up is also a must, the minimum you should wear is mascara as your eyes will look washed out without anything.


How is it achieved? 
Primarily bleach directly on the scalp and most of the time a toner will be needed at the end of the process to create that icy cool feel. Brands of colour that get the most even result are Wella and L'Oreal. 


How often does it need to be refreshed? 
Every 4 weeks. Never leave your re-growth longer than that or you'll find it very hard to keep your colour even.


Does it damage the hair? 
Definitely, but different people will have different degrees of damage so some hair types will cope quite well with the colour. It can also be very harsh on your scalp depending on your sensitivity.


What about fading? 
Platinum doesn't really fade, it can get dull or brassy but most of the time if your using the right products (like a blonde shampoo which tones as you wash) and are getting it refreshed periodically you wont have any problems.


Is there a less extreme blonde look that is more manageable? 
Of course, you can get a light blonde tint which wont get as bright. Or my favourite alternative is a full head of high quantity bleach highlights. You can get almost as blonde without having to have your hair colour refreshed as often as the regrowth isn't as pronounced. (An example of this colour type is my client Ruby to the left)


Favourite platinum/super blonde celebs? 
Gwen Stefanie is the queen on platinum. Pink and Abbey Lee Kershaw also look great.

Get the most out of your colour.

I forget sometimes that a lot of people have trouble making their colour last. This is a problem I constantly manage to avoid for my clients. I'm all about creating low maintenance colour while giving them what they want.
I recently had a blog request on the subject though so I thought I'd share it:

"In your blog, I wonder if you could include a tip or two about getting the most out of your colour? I noticed shampoo ads are always talking up how they make your colour more vibrant for longer or some such, Is this really possible? Are there any other tips or an idea of how long a colour should last / how often you should have to redo it?"

Such a great question. Firstly, all colours fade, grow out or become dull over time. Do not believe these ads when they say that they will make your colour more vibrant. You can, however, use shampoos that aren't as harsh and don't strip out your colour. Please refer back to the Oily & Dry blog for how these shampoo's and conditioners work.

Secondly, it all depends on what kind of colour you have. You cant slow down the rate your hair grows so re-growth is always going to happen. If you have an all over permanent colour you aren't going to notice the regrowth as much if its close to your natural colour. Highlights are going to grow out better than tints as they're scattered colour so the regrowth line is less defined. The more natural the highlights are made to look, the less obvious the regrowth will be. You can get up to 3 months out of your highlights in some cases. If your permanent tint isn't close to your natural colour then I'd suggest getting it done every 4 to 6 weeks.

Thirdly there are ways to touch up your colour to make it last longer at home. You can buy salon shampoos that have toners built in. Red For red hair, Brown for brown hair etc. There's a great range in Goldwell for these type of products.

For a great colour alternative you can always get a semi-perminant. You wont have any regrowth as it is supposed to fade out. Although you can only deposit colour pigment with semi's which means you cant get a lighter colour without it being permanent. But please do not get a semi-permanent home colour. Every time I work with hair that has had a home job "semi" permanent, there is always a regrowth proving that it isn't a semi and will never fade out completely.

Oily at the roots. Dry at the ends. Does this sound like your hair?

A common problem among clients, friends and even myself is that our hair gets oily really fast but the more we wash it, the dryer the ends gets. There are many reasons this could be happening. The wrong shampoo type, not washing your hair properly or you have naturally oily skin. Well I have some tips for all cases.

Firstly. Using  good salon, or even certain chemist shampoos and conditioners, is very important for keeping your scalp and hair healthy.

Supermarket brands can have a lot of horrible silicon, sulfate and sodium chloride in it. There are many types of silicon but the type that gets put into most mass production shampoos and conditioners is not the best for your hair in the long term. While making your hair ultra soft and shiny instantly, they also leave a build up of this silicon on the hair, which over time, builds up on the follicle, weaken it and dry it out. Sulfate and sodium chloride are in all harsh soaps and are generally drying of hair and skin. But they are found in almost all shampoos because they lather. The trick is finding a product with lower amounts. 

Recommendations

A great brand that is sulphate and sodium chloride free is the Trichovedic Hair Wisdom range.

Karpati Haircare shampoo and conditioner has absolutely no silicon in it and is 93% natural. It’s for all hair types and it’s found in most chemists but check stock lists.

Wen cleansing conditioner. It’s just one product and it doesn’t lather at all. Can only be purchased online.

Are you sick of Brassy Blondes? Some tips how to prevent this, and reasons why it occurs.

If your hair is blonde but is constantly getting yellow, orange or brassy you aren’t alone. This is a common problem amongst blondes. The reason for this (as you probably know and advise your hairdresser every time you sit down with them) is that you hair throws warmth when it is coloured. Well, the majority of people’s hair does. More so if your hair is naturally any shade of brown. This also happens when you wash your hair too often, style regularly with thermals (hairdryers, straighteners, tongs, hot rollers etc.), are out in the sun a lot or you swim regularly as all these things contribute too strip colour and health from your hair. It is always going to throw warmth when coloured any shade lighter than its natural colour.

Now if you want to avoid this in the salon when going blonde you need to avoid tints where possible where this problem occurs. Tinting is chosen over bleaching and highlights usually to cover grey, and colour throwing warmth in grey hair is less of an issue. But, when using a tint as a decision when highlighting (in foils), the finer the highlights the less brassy it will become. Eliminating tint completely and using bleach only in highlights is the best option but some brands of colour never get the yellow out completely. But if you do want low-lights (foils that are darker rather than lighter) ask your hairdresser if she will use a semi permanent instead of a tint in the foil. It will fade a little but tints fade also, the onle difference is the semi wont throw warmth or go brassy as it fades. 


Wella and L’Oreal salon brands are generally the best at achieving blondes so do ask your hairdresser before you get your colour.

Toners are great at counteracting yellow, but can sometimes dull your beautiful bright blonde down too much. So make sure your getting subtle ones.

To prevent this at home, every now and then use a silver shampoo (sometimes called blonde shampoo or violet) this will fight against rusty yellow blondes on a regular basis and maintain your toner between services. Wella SP range has an amazing silver shampoo, as does the Trichovedic Hair Wisdom range which is also sulphate and sodium chloride free.
Limit how often you wash and style your hair.
And when out in the sun or swimming use a leave in treatment/moisturiser/conditioner as a barrier. Try Moroccan Oil